Mt Sinai Shine- Skin Care

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Definition: Small lipid-soluble actives are diminutive compounds that dissolve readily in fats and lipids. Their lipid affinity facilitates their passage through the skin’s lipid-rich outer layer, known as the stratum corneum.

Mechanism: Due to their solubility in lipids, these actives can seamlessly integrate into and traverse the lipid matrix of the skin barrier. This characteristic enables them to reach deeper dermal layers or systemic circulation when formulated for transdermal absorption.

Examples: Retinoids such as retinol, certain vitamins like vitamin E, and select essential oils exemplify small lipid-soluble actives.

Definition: Penetration enhancers are specialized agents incorporated into formulations to augment the permeability of the skin or other biological barriers, thereby amplifying the delivery of active ingredients.

Mechanism: These enhancers work by disrupting the lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum, modifying protein structures, or elevating the solubility of the active components. This alteration diminishes the skin's barrier function, facilitating more effective ingredient absorption.

Examples: Penetration enhancers include alcohols like ethanol, fatty acids such as oleic acid, surfactants, and various solvents.

• Purpose: Small lipid-soluble actives are the primary therapeutic agents, while penetration enhancers are auxiliary substances that improve the delivery of these actives or others.
• Mechanism of Action: Small lipid-soluble actives leverage their inherent properties to penetrate the skin, whereas penetration enhancers actively modify skin barrier properties to aid in ingredient absorption.
• Formulation Role: Small lipid-soluble actives are selected for their therapeutic benefits, whereas penetration enhancers are chosen based on their capacity to improve the efficacy of ingredient delivery.

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For products aimed at deep skin penetration, seek formulations containing small, lipid-soluble ingredients such as retinol or glycolic acid. Effective actives include:

• Extracts: Vitamins, delicate botanical extracts, peptides, and essential oils, all of which are absorbed through hair follicles and sebaceous glands.
• Hydroxy Acids: Includes glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid, which facilitate exfoliation and penetration by dissolving bonds between dead skin cells.

Note: While peptides, essential oils, and hydroxy acids typically do not require encapsulation, retinol is particularly effective in stimulating collagen production and improving fine lines due to its small molecular size. Hyaluronic acid, while hydrating, does not penetrate as deeply but excels in moisture retention.

• Retinol: Penetrates the epidermis to affect the dermis, enhancing anti-aging results.
• Niacinamide: Reaches deeper skin layers due to its small molecular size.
• Hyaluronic Acid Fragments: Smaller fragments penetrate more effectively than their larger counterparts.
• Salicylic Acid: Exfoliates deeply, addressing pore congestion.
• Panthenol: Maintains moisture within the dermis.
• Ceramides: Support the skin barrier at multiple levels.
• Vitamin C: Acts as a potent antioxidant with deep dermal penetration.

These substances enhance skin permeability to ensure deeper and more effective absorption of active ingredients. They function by modifying the skin’s barrier, making it easier for molecules to traverse the stratum corneum.

Examples:

• Fatty Acids: Such as oleic acid, which disrupts the skin’s lipid matrix.
• Alcohols: Like isopropyl alcohol, which aids in dissolving other ingredients.
• Surfactants: Reduce surface tension, enhancing ingredient absorption.
• Amino Acids: Aid in lipid formation.
• Fermented Ingredients: Fermentation breaks down molecules into smaller forms for easier absorption. Fermented hyaluronic acid, for instance, penetrates significantly better than its non-fermented counterpart.
• Mineral Extracts: Fermented minerals can be converted into peptides that penetrate the skin.
• Squalane: Derived from fermented sugarcane, provides deep moisture.
• Fermented Vegetables: Ingredients like mushrooms, rice, and ginseng root offer anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits.

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• Lipophilicity: Refers to the affinity of substances for lipids or fats, essential for penetrating the skin’s lipid barrier. Examples include jojoba oil and coconut oil.
• Non-Comedogenicity: Indicates that a substance does not clog pores, making it suitable for acne-prone skin. Non-comedogenic ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin hydrate without causing breakouts.

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• Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF): Stimulates cell growth and repair, used in anti-aging treatments to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
• Jellyfish Collagen: Derived from moon jellyfish, known for its regenerative properties and superior moisturizing ability compared to hyaluronic acid.

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Common petrochemical-derived components in cosmetics include:

• Paraffin Wax
• Mineral Oil
• Toluene
• Benzene
• PEG (Polyethylene Glycol)
• DEA (Diethanolamine) and MEA (Ethanolamine)
• Butanol and Related Compounds
• EDTA (Ethylenediaminetetraacetic Acid)
• Propyl Compounds
• Fragrance: Often contains up to 95 percent petroleum-derived chemicals, which may act as endocrine disruptors.

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MT Sinai Shine offers a comprehensive range of active ingredients far exceeding the typical formulations. Unlike standard products, which may include only a few active ingredients and penetration enhancers, MT Sinai Shine incorporates a diverse array of BHAs, AHAs, and nourishing botanicals. Our formulation ensures deeper skin penetration, enhanced collagen production, and overall skin rejuvenation. With a focus on delivering unparalleled efficacy and value, MT Sinai Shine represents a commitment to creating the most effective skincare solutions. 

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